Showing posts with label 2012 OMS cl350. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2012 OMS cl350. Show all posts
6.02.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 13
Got my seat back from the upholstery shop today. Pretty stoked on how it all turned out, but it definitely makes the rest of the bike look crappy. Put a few miles in today on it, and I think it will do the job. Scramble ready.
5.03.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 12
Ran the bike a good 100 mile circle on Saturday with little issue. A few miles in to the ride, my tag mount decided to jump off the bike. I apparently forgot it was only tack welded on. Later I found one of the screws on my battery tray had gone missing as well as my headlight plug being loose. Overall the ride was a success, as the bike ran nothing short of amazing. The rear shocks are a bit soft, but overall handling was decent. For now my main goals are to get the seat pan finished and covered, shorten all my cables, and start doing some paint and clean up work.
Tag carnage.
Temporary camping mat seat foam.
Cables need a few inches lopped off.
All together now.
Still deciding on paint. The fenders, headlight bucket, and air boxes will be painted silver.
Tag carnage.
Temporary camping mat seat foam.
Cables need a few inches lopped off.
All together now.
Still deciding on paint. The fenders, headlight bucket, and air boxes will be painted silver.
4.26.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 11
Took a day off work this Monday to try and button up a few things. Both tires/tubes are mounted, fork seals and fluid, chain on, rear brake adjusted, new headlight mount, etc. Managed to get the carb o-rings installed after a good dip and cleaning. Decided to try and take it for the first ride down the block only to discover a locked up clutch pack. Called it a night and decided to try again the next day. Here's a vid of it running.
The next day I put the bike on the jack and ran it through all the gears winding it out while pumping the clutch lever randomly. Much to my surprise it worked. Ran it around the block a bunch, and it is running amazing. All throttle ranges respond well, no flat spots or choppy areas. Couldn't be happier. Spent last night getting the brake cable installed and wiring up the tail light. Ran out of female spades, so I will be finishing up the headlight switch this evening as well as making a temporary padded seat while I figure out some upholstery options. Spent my lunch break at the DMV today getting tags, so come Saturday I will be able to start plugging in some serious test miles working out any gremlins. Some updated pics will be up soon.
The next day I put the bike on the jack and ran it through all the gears winding it out while pumping the clutch lever randomly. Much to my surprise it worked. Ran it around the block a bunch, and it is running amazing. All throttle ranges respond well, no flat spots or choppy areas. Couldn't be happier. Spent last night getting the brake cable installed and wiring up the tail light. Ran out of female spades, so I will be finishing up the headlight switch this evening as well as making a temporary padded seat while I figure out some upholstery options. Spent my lunch break at the DMV today getting tags, so come Saturday I will be able to start plugging in some serious test miles working out any gremlins. Some updated pics will be up soon.
4.05.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 10
Headlight mount is done, for now at least. Tail light mount is done for the most part as well. You can also see the beginnings of the seat pan, some shorty emgo mufflers, and where I mounted my key switch. I'm not a huge fan of the mufflers right now, but they will do until I can snatch up a better pair later.
Here's a quick photoshop to see how I want to do the seat as well as tucking the headlight in a bit more.
I've ran the bike a few times now, and it was apparent that the carbs needed a good cleaning and new o-ring kits. I should have the kits in tomorrow, so I could potentially have it all back together over the weekend. Also have a new pair of tires/tubes, chain, and fork seals to add to the list.
Here's a quick photoshop to see how I want to do the seat as well as tucking the headlight in a bit more.
I've ran the bike a few times now, and it was apparent that the carbs needed a good cleaning and new o-ring kits. I should have the kits in tomorrow, so I could potentially have it all back together over the weekend. Also have a new pair of tires/tubes, chain, and fork seals to add to the list.
3.23.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 9
Bummed about not getting the bike started, I decided I should work on what I have in my hands and can do something about. Wiring.
I did a full rewire set up for kick only. The only thing I lack to finish the harness is the lights portion of the loom. Since those run directly from my fuse panel, it won't take but a few minutes to wire up. Here's a quick run down of components I used, and an explanation for each one. Some of this may be common knowledge, but maybe it will help someone out there that is intimidated by wiring or just getting started. Also, stock replacement components or even used parts can be pricey. Most of the components I use are inexpensive parts that can be purchased at stores you can physically go to. That means if you break down, a part is just around the corner.
I have used a keyed ignition switch from Tractor Supply intended for a Ford tractor with good success over the years, so it was a no brainer. SKU number 0236570 It costs $15.99, and so far I have yet to have one fail on me. Usually I de-solder the connections and use my own spades to connect. I am sure these are just re-branded units, but I have a TSC right down the block from my house.
Another item I like to use for a new wiring harness is a Buss ATC Fuse Panel with 6 connections Item number 15600-06-02. You run your main power through the post, and out through each terminal you run power to the lights or any accessory in your loom. Having six connections usually leaves a couple spots to hold some spares, and it's super simple to mount. I got mine through AutoZone, but you can get these at just about any parts store. Rough cost of $7-10.
I also run an inline fuse from the battery positive to the key switch for an extra bit of safety. Any parts store should have one, and usually for less than $4.
The Radio Shack rectifier has been discussed before a lot, but it couldn't hurt to lump it all in anyways. Item number 276-1185 25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier for $3.49. Cheap enough you can carry a spare without your wallet even knowing, and in stock at the store.
+ to battery
- to ground
~ pink
~ white and yellow combined
The ~ connections can be switched, so you can't get them mixed up.
The battery I chose is a 12v SLA 4.5ah from ebay for $13.94 shipped. The dimensions are 4"H x 3.5"L x 2.75W. I have run as small as 2.2ah before without issue and could go smaller, but figured since I had the room I could go a bit bigger. This battery will not provide enough juice for the starter, so it is a kick only application. I have used 7ah before for starters, but your bike will need to be well tuned and a quick starter, as they run out of juice quick.
On to the light switch setup. Usually I would use a DPDT on/off/on switch to control the lights. It has 6 terminals, so I would normally run a brake light power lead to both on positions on one side, while putting a hi/lo to the other on connections. Unfortunately the cb350 doesn't charge too well with the headlight on all the time, so I want to run a simple SPST on/off for the tail light and a 3 terminal SPDT on/off/on for the head light. Each switch is needed so that if I am low on battery juice, I can get every ounce of power to the coils by cutting all power to the lights. Each switch will run you roughly $3-10.
I will use the stock regulator and coils, but if the stock coils go out, I will run a pair of these 12v 4.7ohm ones from z1enterprises for $14.72 each. Part number EM24-71512 For a stock points ignition these work great, and cost a considerable amount less than Dynas or a pair of junk used stockers.
That about sums it up. I'll be taking some new pics of where and how everything is mounted soon.
Here's the basic wiring diagram I used.
I did a full rewire set up for kick only. The only thing I lack to finish the harness is the lights portion of the loom. Since those run directly from my fuse panel, it won't take but a few minutes to wire up. Here's a quick run down of components I used, and an explanation for each one. Some of this may be common knowledge, but maybe it will help someone out there that is intimidated by wiring or just getting started. Also, stock replacement components or even used parts can be pricey. Most of the components I use are inexpensive parts that can be purchased at stores you can physically go to. That means if you break down, a part is just around the corner.
I have used a keyed ignition switch from Tractor Supply intended for a Ford tractor with good success over the years, so it was a no brainer. SKU number 0236570 It costs $15.99, and so far I have yet to have one fail on me. Usually I de-solder the connections and use my own spades to connect. I am sure these are just re-branded units, but I have a TSC right down the block from my house.
Another item I like to use for a new wiring harness is a Buss ATC Fuse Panel with 6 connections Item number 15600-06-02. You run your main power through the post, and out through each terminal you run power to the lights or any accessory in your loom. Having six connections usually leaves a couple spots to hold some spares, and it's super simple to mount. I got mine through AutoZone, but you can get these at just about any parts store. Rough cost of $7-10.
I also run an inline fuse from the battery positive to the key switch for an extra bit of safety. Any parts store should have one, and usually for less than $4.
The Radio Shack rectifier has been discussed before a lot, but it couldn't hurt to lump it all in anyways. Item number 276-1185 25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier for $3.49. Cheap enough you can carry a spare without your wallet even knowing, and in stock at the store.
+ to battery
- to ground
~ pink
~ white and yellow combined
The ~ connections can be switched, so you can't get them mixed up.
The battery I chose is a 12v SLA 4.5ah from ebay for $13.94 shipped. The dimensions are 4"H x 3.5"L x 2.75W. I have run as small as 2.2ah before without issue and could go smaller, but figured since I had the room I could go a bit bigger. This battery will not provide enough juice for the starter, so it is a kick only application. I have used 7ah before for starters, but your bike will need to be well tuned and a quick starter, as they run out of juice quick.
On to the light switch setup. Usually I would use a DPDT on/off/on switch to control the lights. It has 6 terminals, so I would normally run a brake light power lead to both on positions on one side, while putting a hi/lo to the other on connections. Unfortunately the cb350 doesn't charge too well with the headlight on all the time, so I want to run a simple SPST on/off for the tail light and a 3 terminal SPDT on/off/on for the head light. Each switch is needed so that if I am low on battery juice, I can get every ounce of power to the coils by cutting all power to the lights. Each switch will run you roughly $3-10.
I will use the stock regulator and coils, but if the stock coils go out, I will run a pair of these 12v 4.7ohm ones from z1enterprises for $14.72 each. Part number EM24-71512 For a stock points ignition these work great, and cost a considerable amount less than Dynas or a pair of junk used stockers.
That about sums it up. I'll be taking some new pics of where and how everything is mounted soon.
Here's the basic wiring diagram I used.
3.05.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 8
Got a chance to clean up all the extra tabs in the seat area.
Frame horns welded up, and a better shot of the fender mounts
Air box mounted with new mounting rod. I am going to put some nice acorn nuts in place of the spiked original ones soon.
Final To Do List
1. get running
2. fiberglass seat pan
3. tail light mount
4. head light mount
5. mount mufflers
6. mount tires
7. rattle can
I want to get this beast on the road before the end of the month to start getting some test and tune mileage.
Frame horns welded up, and a better shot of the fender mounts
Air box mounted with new mounting rod. I am going to put some nice acorn nuts in place of the spiked original ones soon.
Final To Do List
1. get running
2. fiberglass seat pan
3. tail light mount
4. head light mount
5. mount mufflers
6. mount tires
7. rattle can
I want to get this beast on the road before the end of the month to start getting some test and tune mileage.
2.23.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 7
Starter plug.
Battery box modified.
Fender mounts.
I still need to weld the seam on the frame horns and make a tail light mount to officially finish up the rear.
Battery box modified.
Fender mounts.
I still need to weld the seam on the frame horns and make a tail light mount to officially finish up the rear.
1.17.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 6
Frame horns trimmed. I still need to fill the bolt holes, weld the seam, and add some bracing back in.
Fork ears trimmed. I will be removing the fork lock, and making a headlight bracket that attaches with the lower fork pinch bolts.
Need to fill these holes on both ears.
Rear profile.
Side profile.
Fork ears trimmed. I will be removing the fork lock, and making a headlight bracket that attaches with the lower fork pinch bolts.
Need to fill these holes on both ears.
Rear profile.
Side profile.
1.16.2012
cl350 build/entry: part 5
Wow. I've been pretty lazy/busy as of late. No more excuses, time to knuckle down and finish what I've started.
The original plan was to run earlier model cb350 plastic sidecovers, however eBay prices are dictating otherwise for old cracked units. As luck would have it, a buddy snatched up some OG air filter elements and enclosures in trade for a set of cb360 units I had laying around.They actually look good without the sidecovers on, so the new plan is to clean them up and paint them silver to match the rendering. A little mesh here and there at the big openings should keep the nasty bits out.
On to the rear fender. I have been looking at the side profile of a ton of bikes to try and get the right look. I finally settled on a cb125 rear fender which leaves me to figure out which way to mount it. It's been a real head-scratcher to say the least. There were a ton of brackets that were spot welded on GOOD, so a couple of hours of careful grinding yielded the proper profile I have been looking for. I ended up using the innermost part of the stock cl350 as a splash guard, and am currently finishing up the mounts for the cb125 section. The side profile is pretty damn close to what I envisioned, so things are on the right track. I also got a chance to start carving up the frame horns at the rear, but haven't snapped any pics of them in the daylight yet.
The original plan was to run earlier model cb350 plastic sidecovers, however eBay prices are dictating otherwise for old cracked units. As luck would have it, a buddy snatched up some OG air filter elements and enclosures in trade for a set of cb360 units I had laying around.They actually look good without the sidecovers on, so the new plan is to clean them up and paint them silver to match the rendering. A little mesh here and there at the big openings should keep the nasty bits out.
On to the rear fender. I have been looking at the side profile of a ton of bikes to try and get the right look. I finally settled on a cb125 rear fender which leaves me to figure out which way to mount it. It's been a real head-scratcher to say the least. There were a ton of brackets that were spot welded on GOOD, so a couple of hours of careful grinding yielded the proper profile I have been looking for. I ended up using the innermost part of the stock cl350 as a splash guard, and am currently finishing up the mounts for the cb125 section. The side profile is pretty damn close to what I envisioned, so things are on the right track. I also got a chance to start carving up the frame horns at the rear, but haven't snapped any pics of them in the daylight yet.
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